italian coffee takes a different approach to the espresso ratio than a lot of london spots, and if you're ordering here, that concentrated, shorter pull style is probably where you want to start. harrow doesn't always get talked about in the same breath as shoreditch or fitzrovia when people list their specialty stops, but station road has its own rhythm, and ancona fits into it without needing to explain itself. locals clearly feel that way too, given how well regarded the place has become in the area. you can take that seriously. the italian tradition here isn't decorative, it's the actual operating logic of the menu. come in the morning, when that approach to espresso makes the most sense, and order accordingly.
curated by gautam khorana, editor · updated
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