Panfuwa

you're on via pompeo magno, a residential stretch in the prati neighborhood where the streets run wide and the foot traffic is mostly local. prati sits close enough to the vatican that tourists pass through, but this part of it, around the hundreds, feels more like people actually live here. panfuwa is the kind of place that builds a local following because the neighborhood lets it. rome has no shortage of bars pulling espresso, and yet a spot on this street has managed to mean something to the people around it. if you're coming from the tiber or cutting across from lungotevere, the walk makes the stop feel earned. get there in the morning, when the city is still deciding what kind of day it wants to be, and order the espresso standing up.