Penguin Café

slow mornings in hakuba move differently than anywhere else in nagano, and if you're the kind of person who wants somewhere to sit with a drink before the mountain crowds arrive, penguin café on hokujo is worth knowing about. the area sits at the base of the alps, which means the pace outside the window is either very still or very full, depending on the season you've landed in. the coffee standing here is strong enough that you don't need to second-guess the order. independent spots in ski towns can go either way, but this one holds up. come for something warm before the slopes, or stay longer than you planned on a grey afternoon. the cortado is a solid way to start.