if you're the kind of person who takes torajan coffee seriously, padangsambian klod isn't the most obvious place to look for it, but jl. gn. athena pulls you somewhere worth the detour. aluk focuses on toraja as a region, not as a shorthand for dark-roasted nostalgia, which means you're getting something more considered than the bulk-processed stuff that passes for "sulawesi" at most cafes on the island. the standing here is genuinely strong, and it's consistent, which counts for more than a single great visit. torajan arabica at its best carries a clean earthiness that doesn't need much done to it, and a roastery that understands that tends to let the bean lead. start with whatever single-origin filter they're pouring that morning.
curated by gautam khorana, editor · updated
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