
panama coffee
by calico coffee · london, uk
you'll taste lemon before grapefruit. this is panama kotowa geisha - washed, a honey panama from calico coffee.
it leads with lemon, grapefruit, and citrus zest, then opens into jasmine and broader floral tones. the finish settles into black tea and honeycomb, giving it a dry, tea-like quality alongside gentle sweetness.
the coffee is a geisha variety grown in boquete, panama, and processed using the honey method, meaning some of the fruit mucilage remains on the bean during drying. despite the name including washed, the listed process is honey, which tends to produce a slightly fuller body and added sweetness compared to a fully washed geisha.
a filter or pour over method suits this coffee well, keeping the floral and tea-like notes clear and distinct. brewing at 90 to 92 degrees celsius helps avoid over-extraction, which can push the citrus character toward bitterness.
you notice the filter bar first, hand-built and low, the kind of thing someone who trained as an architect would obsess over. junchao jonny huang did exactly that before placing third at the 2023 uk brewers cup and opening calico on lower marsh near waterloo. dark wood, soft light, no wasted gestures. huang roasts some of the coffee himself, sources his own green, and still brings in guest roasters when it makes sense. every drink comes with an origin card. considered without being precious about it.
all coffee from calico coffeelondon, uk
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