Simple Kaffa

you'll notice the name first, simple kaffa, which sounds almost like a shrug, an admission that good coffee doesn't need theater. but what charles chen and his team are doing in taipei's da'an district is anything but casual. taiwan specialty coffee gets serious treatment here, beans from alishan and nantou processed with the same precision you'd find applied to ethiopian or colombian lots, but with a terroir that tastes like humid mountain air and something faintly floral. drink it while it's hot.