you can smell the green coffee beans drying in takengon's highland air before you even step into syalia's roastery. this isn't your typical third-wave setup, it's where gayo farmers bring their wet-hulled beans still sticky with mountain mist. the mandheling they roast here tastes like earth and brown sugar, heavy on your tongue in the best possible way. syalia knows sumatran coffee doesn't need fixing, just careful attention to what makes it distinctly indonesian.
curated by gautam khorana, editor · updated
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