you can smell the gayo highlands in every bag that leaves toko kopi gayo's small roastery in takengon. they stick to what grows around them, wet-hulled sumatran beans that carry the earthy funk only this processing method delivers. the mandheling shows chocolate undertones that linger on your tongue long after the cup empties. their gayo varietal tastes like the volcanic soil it grew in, rich and almost chewy. java rounds out their lineup with a cleaner profile, but still carries that distinctive indonesian weight. this is sumatra without apology.

curated by gautam khorana, editor · updated

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